2018 O Pando Godello, La Perdida, Galicia, Spain

£26.95
O Pando is a mountain vineyard of Godello, from which Nacho produces two different wines. This, the white which sees less time on the skins, is hand harvested, destemmed, macerated for 4-5 days and fermented in open-top tinaja. The 'white'  shows plenty of appealing skinsy character, with notes of quince and ripe apple layered over a salty and stony mineral core. In fact, the 'white' is perhaps riper and denser than the orange, which seemed leaner despite the longer skin contact. There's appealing structure from both acidity and tannin to balance this ripeness. This was fascinating and surprising to try right now, but my guess is that it will knit together well over the next few months.